Wild Brother Co. Blog

Major doesn’t have thumbs, but he’ll make life-saving phone calls if he needs to. 

Marine veteran Terry McGlade was wounded by a roadside bomb in Afghanistan and suffers from seizures and PTSD. Major, his pitbull lab mix, is trained to help with both. 

One Spring day in 2014, Terry collapsed in his backyard, and began seizing. Major called an audible, going way outside any formal training he’d received, and pulled McGlade’s phone out of his pocket.

Police dispatch received 10 calls before they sent an ambulance. Do you know how long McGlade must have been seizing for a dispatch to hang up 10 times? 

Did you also know a dog stepping on your phone can call 911?

Again, nobody trained Major to use a phone, but he figured it out by watching his owner use it.

When paramedics arrived, Major was waiting to lead them from the curb to the backyard. McGlade is okay, and he has a new phone since his old one has bite marks. 

Major now uses the old one to swipe through potential mates on dog dating app Boom Chickahuahua where his profile just says, "Stud."

A dog's instincts go unmatched.

Thinking about getting a second dog? Or maybe you have a friend looking for their first puppy. Either way, before signing the papers with the incredible breeder you found based only on the color of the splotch on his left eye, it’s worth mentioning that this type of companionship can last 16 years. Shooting from the hip might not be the best method of picking your next dog. 

The Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test is an extensive and comprehensive method by which to test connection and temperament. This series of 10 experiments has been developed since the 1930’s, and has been used since by professionals to choose the pick of the litter. The instructions are long, but these 20-30 minutes could be the difference between 16 years of struggle and 16 years of unadulterated unity.

If you or anyone you know is in the market for a new puppy, use this method to pick it out.

The 10 Experiments 

(Credit: volharddognutrition.com)

1. Social Attraction - degree of social attraction to people, confidence or dependence.
2. Following - willingness to follow a person
3. Restraint - degree of dominant or submissive tendency, and ease of handling in difficult situations.
4. Social Dominance - degree of acceptance of social dominance by a person.
5. Elevation - degree of accepting dominance while in a position of no control, such as at the veterinarian or groomer.
6. Retrieving - degree of willingness to do something for you. Together with Social Attraction and Following a key indicator for ease or difficulty in training.
7. Touch Sensitivity - degree of sensitivity to touch and a key indicator to the type of training equipment required.
8. Sound Sensitivity - degree of sensitivity to sound, such as loud noises or thunderstorms.
9. Sight Sensitivity - degree of response to a moving object, such as chasing bicycles, children or squirrels.
10. Stability - degree of startle response to a strange object.

Rules and Best-Practices for Performing the 10 Experiments

(Credit: volharddognutrition.com)

• Some studies suggest 49 days is the optimal point at which to test the puppy: he is developed mentally, but still without too much prior learning/habituation. Other research shows that testing at 5 weeks is just as effective. Since some breeders will have you take your pup at 5 weeks, go ahead and test at that point, but don’t walk away with a puppy that doesn’t perform the way you want it to just because the breeder pressures you
• Test the puppy in a location that is unfamiliar - doesn’t need to be in Mozambique, just a new room he’s never been to, or a gated area in a new yard
• Test only one puppy at a time
• Allow nobody but the scorer and the tester into the area
• The puppy should not know the tester
• The scorer should have no interest in selling you a puppy - make sure they are objective observers
• The scorer doesn’t interact with the puppy, but is a bystander
• The puppy is tested before he is fed
• The testing takes place while the puppy is most energetic
• If the puppy is not well, cancel the test
• The puppy should not be tested the day of or the day after being vaccinated.
• Only the first response counts

The Experiments

(Credit: volharddognutrition.com)

1. Social attraction - Kneel down and coax the puppy to come to you by gently clapping hands and calling. Coax the puppy in the opposite direction from where it entered the test area. Lean backward on your heels and keep your hands close to your body instead of leaning forward toward the puppy. Don’t reach for him.
2. Following - Stand and slowly walk away, encouraging the puppy to follow. Make sure the puppy sees you walk away and get the puppy to focus on you by lightly clapping and calling. Don’t lean over the puppy. 
3. Restraint - Crouch down and gently roll the puppy on his back. Hold him there for 30 seconds. No need to push down, just keep him there.
4. Social Dominance - let the puppy stand up or sit and gently stroke it from the head to the back while you crouch beside it. See if he will lick your face - here, you’re seeing if he’s forgiven you for the restraint experiment. Continue stroking until you see a behavior you can score. Don’t lean or hover over the puppy. Ensure the puppy is at your side and facing the same direction.
5. Elevation Dominance - Cradle the puppy with both hands, supporting him under his chest. Gently lift him two feet off the ground and hold him there for 30 seconds
6. Retrieving - Crouch by the puppy and get his attention with a crumpled up piece of paper. When you have his attention, throw the paper 3-4 feet away and encourage him to fetch.
7. Touch Sensitivity - Locate the webbing the puppy’s front paws and press it lightly between your index finger and thumb. Gradually increase pressure while counting to ten. Stop when he pulls away or shows signs of discomfort.
8. Sound Sensitivity - Place the puppy in the center of the testing area and an assistant (make sure this is not you) at the perimeter makes a sharp noise, such as banging a metal spoon on the bottom of a metal pan.
9. Sight Sensitivity - Place the puppy in the center of the testing area. Tie a string around a bath towel and jerk it across the floor, two feet away from the puppy.
10. Stability - Open an umbrella ~5 feet from the puppy and gently place it on the ground.

Scoring

(Credit: volharddognutrition.com)

Make sure your scorer is paying close attention to reactions of the puppy as you go. Subtle cues are at the heart of these experiments. Here is your scoring rubric. Print it out before going to see the puppy, or make sure your scorer can access it on their phone. 

To evaluate the scores, do not take averages or sums, we’re just looking for “mostly’s.” According to Volhard, this is how to analyze the results of your experiments:

Mostly 1’s -

Strong desire to be pack leader and is not shy about bucking for a promotion. Has a predisposition to be aggressive to people and other dogs and will bite. Should only be placed into a very experienced home where the dog will be trained and worked on a regular basis.Top Dog Tips: Stay away from the puppy with a lot of 1’s or 2’s.  It has lots of leadership aspirations and may be difficult to manage.  This puppy needs an experienced home.  Not good with children.

Mostly 2’s -

Also has leadership aspirations. May be hard to manage and has the capacity to bite. Has lots of self-confidence. Should not be placed into an inexperienced home. Too unruly to be good with children and elderly people, or other animals. Needs a strict schedule, loads of exercise and lots of training. Has the potential to be a great show dog with someone who understands dog behavior.

Mostly 3’s -

Can be a high-energy dog and may need lots of exercise. Good with people and other animals. Can be a bit of a handful to live with. Needs training, does very well at it and learns quickly. Great dog for second time owner.

Mostly 4’s -

The kind of dog that makes the perfect pet. Best choice for the first time owner. Rarely will buck for a promotion in the family. Easy to train, and rather quiet. Good with elderly people, children, although may need protection from the children. Choose this pup, take it to obedience classes, and you’ll be the star, without having to do too much work! Tidbits: The puppy with mostly 3’s and 4’s can be quite a handful, but should be good with children and does well with training.  Energy needs to be dispersed with plenty of exercise.

Mostly 5’s -

Fearful, shy and needs special handling. Will run away at the slightest stress in its life. Strange people, strange places, different floor or ground surfaces may upset it. Often afraid of loud noises and terrified of thunder storms. When you greet it upon your return, may submissively urinate.  Needs a very special home where the environment doesn’t change too much and where there are no children. Best for a quiet, elderly couple. If cornered and cannot get away, has a tendency to bite.

Mostly 6’s -

So independent that he doesn’t need you or other people. Doesn’t care if he is trained or not - he is his own person  Unlikely to bond to you, since he doesn’t need you. A great guard dog for gas stations! Do not take this puppy and think you can change him into a lovable bundle - you can’t, so leave well enough alone.

Conclusion

You’ll walk into a litter of puppies, one of them will run up to you and start licking you, and you will think, “This has to be it.” As powerful as these emotions are, today, use logic. There are years and years ahead of you bound to be full of positive emotions like these if you pick the right puppy for you.

If you’ve ever run a mountain trail - or let’s face it - even let your dog off-leash during a walk, she probably makes you look like Newman from Seinfeld racing Usain Bolt. 

I once strapped my GPS watch to Luna’s collar during an 8-mile run. By the time I’d finished, she’d clocked a little over 13 miles, AND all at the pace she uses to chase deer (fast). I thought it was cool until I saw bloody paw marks on the floor, and watched her nap much longer than she had before. I was proud of her, but felt like a big dummy myself. 

Dogs have twice as many legs as we do, but that doesn’t mean they’re meant to go twice as hard all the time - some will if you let them. Luna woke up with a limp the next morning, and still wanted to join me on my run. Instincts and love are stronger than pain for these creatures. 

So how can you tell when your four-legged companion might need a recovery day? 

Here are 3 Signs

Stiffness or Limping

Ignore the meatheads. Your dog does not need to be hobbling around in a cut-off tanktop to show she got in a good #legday. If she is hobbling, that’s a clear sign she went too hard during her last outing. Pay close attention to her. Is she pausing before jumping up into the car when she normally doesn’t hesitate? Is she walking more slowly up the stairs? Does she not want to bend all the way down to her food bowl? Give her a massage, and a few days of short, easy walks. She’s earned it. And try to avoid the same length of that particular activity again.

Behavior Change

If your dog’s tail normally shoots to the ceiling when you say “walk,” and she instead comes begrudgingly to have her leash attached without enthusiasm, that’s your sign. If she isn’t giving the mailman quite as much hell as she normally does, that’s your sign. One day like this might just be a sign of a great, long day in the mountains, but let it happen too often and you’ll be dancing with injuries, vet bills, and a sad pup. 

Torn Paw Pads

One bleeding paw pad, and your dog can still get around. Two, and she’ll be pretty hard-pressed to move without being in a good amount of pain. Cutting or wearing through the paw pad is like you walking on a ruptured blister, only you can find ways of getting off your feet and still be productive. Luna isn’t so lucky. If the paw pad is cut or worn through, you may notice your dog licking her feet more than usual. If you’ve been running with her on cement (like fine-grit sandpaper to paw pads), transition to grass, then dirt for a week or two. 

All in all, you want your best friend to join you on your escapades as much as possible. And she wants the same! Spread your exercise out. Don’t try to fit all your workouts into a couple days just because you have work off. Keep an eye on how she reacts after different exercise types and intervals, and keep track of the times when she goes over the top. Lastly, take breaks and days off when you notice any of the above. Your dog is tough, and she is wild, but it’s your job to make sure she stays that way.